Are you going to restore or replace old windows?
Most of us know little about the proper rehabilitation of windows, and many are uncertain about the cost of putting work at a carpentry shop. But both from snooker teams and antiquarian authorities it is argued that refurbishment of older windows will usually pay off rather than switching to new ones. The price depends, of course, on the state of the windows, but we have gathered the following arguments to keep the old windows:
- The vintage quality in old windows is often better than in new ones.
- Replacement usually means additional customization work with respect to. wall, fittings, feeds and moldings.
- Frame and frame profiles are smoother and more elegant on old windows.
- The old, so-so glass has more “life” than perfect glass in new windows.
- New windows get bored without corner iron and old profiles.
- New windows are often fitted with dominant aluminum strips.
- Based on a thermal economy, window replacement is almost never profitable – especially not on a cabin.
First Aid for Old Windows
Technically, there is nothing in the way that old windows from the 1950s to 60s could have been given extended lifetime with some maintenance now and then. Although such windows do not isolate as well as new supervindues, the properties can be improved with relatively simple grip while retaining the original exterior of the cabin:
- Install sealing strips.
- Check that the cavity between the frame and the wall is well insulated and windproof.
- Install inside windows.
Are you still convinced that the old windows need to be changed, please read about selecting windows, tips, and completing a complete window replacement below.
Are new superinduks as great after 10 years?
New windows are high-tech products that will greatly match the windows to keep what the manufacturer promises.
A classic weakness is puncture of sealed glass panes (thermal pipes, thermoglass, insulating glass o. l. ) which causes the insulating gas between the glasses to disappear and gives a reduced U value and dew. This can happen even before 10 years have passed, but many windows work well, even after 15-20 years.
Although the wood in new windows is of better quality than ordinary wood load, good impregnation and surface treatment are required. Most new windows are therefore finished impregnated at the factory, but they still require surface treatment and regular maintenance.
Tilt, turn or side hinge?
Cabins with style and soul and demands respect. Although windows are windows, flip-flops with loose sprouts give a completely different facade than side hinged with continuous sprouts. Try to imagine what effect the different wine types have for your cabin facade. Old buildings with harmonic facades are best served by having a similar type of window. For recognition and the environment, it produces the best results.
It’s not beautiful when a stylish old building stands with tilting windows on the slope and cracks like hovering over the glass surfaces. On older buildings unintentionally side-hung windows are expected. Do not let casual decisions reduce the quality of your cabin facade. Keep in mind that you get side-hung windows with slides so windows can snus vertically for easier window wash and maintenance..
Trevindues are technically still the natural choice of a cabin. However, windows with plastic or aluminum surfaces have a maintenance factor that will nourish many of us, and such windows are available in many beautiful colors. At a greater distance, there is hardly any difference between wood and painted aluminum. But what kind of cabin are we really looking for?
Energy glass, super energy glass or just glass?
Many older cottage windows still have a layer of glass. It works fine on a nice summer day, but when everyone is inside and playing cards in rainy weather, there is a lot of dew. Winter time will also be cold and icebergs.
Such simple windows have a high heat loss, usually around 5.0 W / m2 K in U value – over twice as much heat loss as a conventional two-layer insulation glass window.
The technically best option is probably three-layer super-energy glass with noble gas (argon, krypton m. fl. ) between the glass panes and perhaps with heat-reflective foil on the inside. Then you can achieve a U value of 1.0-1.2. Probably wasted on a summer cabin, but certainly a noticeable improvement on a weather-huted mountain cabin.
The building instructions guide recommends a minimum U-value for windows in the housing of 1.6 W / m2K. This corresponds to approximately double-glazed windows in the wooden arm.
A combined side hinged coupled window with two-tier insulating glass as the innermost route and the single-sectional outer route is perhaps the optimal solution for a full-year cabin when considering price, efficiency and maintenance..
Here’s the unparalleled route’s benefits in terms of. washing and maintenance while at the same time the cabin has stylish windows with real sprouts. Such windows may have a U value of about 1.3 – 1.8 depending on the insulating glass type.
To change window with frame
Once you have thoroughly reviewed the restoration of the old windows and found it inappropriate to carry out, replacement is the last opportunity. The oldest windows have rarely standard core dimensions. As late as the 1960s, the windows were delivered in obscene dimensions – at least 5cm intervals.
New windows are delivered with standard dimensions at 10 centimeter intervals and replacement of old windows often causes the need for wall or special purpose windows. Special target means longer ordering time.
Foam foam should not be used as the only fixture for windows and doors. The foam foam is easy to loosen from the frame and wall due to. movements in the wood. The windows will eventually hang on in framing and lighting!
Reasons to cool from windows Cooling or pulling from windows happens bl. a. When windows with single glass or poor U-value have an interior glass surface that is significantly colder than the room temperature. When the indoor air hits the glass, it cools down, gets heavier and descends down to the floor. This air movement feels like a move. Panel ovens under the window can compensate for this cold set.
Dense flower shelves on the windowsill reinforce the feeling of moves. Pull from windows may also be due to the fact that the cavity between the frame and the wall is not (sufficiently) pushed with insulation or the joints are not windproof. Bad sealing between the window frame and the frame is also a common cause of features that can be corrected with sealing strips. Seal strips must not be painted.
Let the factory paint the windows Painting new windows is a work you can leave at the factory with a good conscience. It costs a few dollars extra, but the technical quality exceeds your self-made result at a good margin and gives you extra quality time in the hammock. You can also have the windows painted in different color, exterior and interior – possibly. or. paint and varnish.
Look for NDVK stamp Norwegian door and window manufacturers are collaborating on a voluntary control system called the Norwegian Door and Window Control (NDVK). In addition to the common quality requirements for the windows, member companies must also meet certain quality requirements. Therefore, look for the NDVK brand when buying windows.
Order Time All sizes will not be stocked at any time. At worst, wait a few weeks before you get the windows. High season in spring, holiday time and special destinations will extend the waiting time.
Same core goals – but different Keep in mind that the size of close-ups and windows with the same core dimensions look different when they get to the wall because the size of the glass surfaces is different. Window dimensions = BXH Door and window dimensions are always specified in width x height – ie. width target first. Most people bump into this once in life, but you learn. The same goes for glass windows.
Direction From time to time, the direction of the window may be important. To know which direction of direction the window has, consider the closed window from the side of the hinges visible. Are the hinges on the left side, there is a left-hung window and vice versa.
Targeting and Planning
First bid when replacing windows is to remove exterior framing or internal lists and check accurate external core dimensions (width x height).
The frame profile should also be evaluated in relation to new standard profiles, fittings and seals to determine whether structural adjustments must be made. If the water tray bracket needs to be replaced, please follow the water tray with o. s. v.
If you want to put your job off, there may be some hours of expensive “extra work” here. If the wall is not to be repaired at the same time, it is enough to order windows with the same core dimensions as the old ones, even though the windows themselves will be somewhat more expensive.
Last Preparations Before Mounting
Please remove the old windows until you have the new ones in your house. When the windows are removed and the opening is done, place two pieces about 4-6 mm thick blocks on the loose hole where the window comes.
If the window is extra wide or has a central post, three blocks are used. This reduces the chance of moisture and rubbing in the window sill. Calculate clearance of at least 10 mm between the top and bottom of the window.
Please check the side frames too, so you avoid surprises when lifting the heavy window. On the heaviest you should consider hooking up or unscrewing glass w / frame.
To insert the window
The window is inserted in the same way, by placing the bottom frame on the loose hole and tilting it upwards. Remember to attach a barrier-free exterior so that the window disappears in the geographic area. The window should now be placed on the bottom of the base and pressed against the inside of the outer cover or the frame.
The window is then temporarily attached with wedges between the side frames and the wall. Trekiler or plastic cables are inserted from each side and together form a rectangular block that fills the space between the frame and the light aperture.
Water Board Hardware
Old fittings that are tight and fit the new window can be used again. In connection with rehabilitation work on older buildings, it can be aesthetically correct to make the water boards only of wood. Then use impermeable sealant between water boards and window shields.
Attaching the window
When the window is clamped, watered up and sits correctly in relation to outer covering and framing, a hole in the side frames is drilled about 10 cm from the corner, if this is not already done at the factory, and also a smaller steering wheel in the frame, so that the screws get caught. Our recommendation is undoubtedly screws rather than nails. It provides the best adjustment options.
The diameter of the holes depends on whether to use nails, screws or adjustable frame screws. To nail about 3 mm, for screws the holes should be so wide in the window sill that the screw can be knocked through, but in the wall the hole must be so tight that the screw joints will get well. Hull for adjustable frame screws are drilled according to. user manual.
Screw heads should be countersinked in the frame so that they are not visible, alternatively, provided plastic stoppers for sealing. Make sure the window is in the water until the last nail or screw is in.
Seal and Draft
The gap between the window and the opening should be windproof to the outside wall and steamproof from the inside. This can be done by making windproof cardboard outermost and plastic inside. Alternatively, sealants may be used. In the space there is insulation. The insulation should not be stuck. Be careful to fill all cavities – here’s a lot of sin!