The terrace is building yourself

You build the terrace yourself with our description.

The terrace is building yourself

Building a patio has many common features, whether you are building a terrace, porch or balcony.

The goal is to have a steady and straight floor that can withstand a noisy and at the same time create a nice setting around your stay outdoors on the cabin.

The description here relates to wooden buildings, and the carpets themselves..

We assume that the foundation is located and built, and that pillar or beam shoe is ready to accommodate the new terrace or veranda.

If you build a tree terrace or just across the terrain, weeds that grow through the floor can be annoying.

Before starting the wood constructions, it is therefore recommended to lay out a non-woven fabric that keeps the growth at bay throughout the lifetime of the terrace.

This is very effective, but remember to attach the nonwoven fabric so that no cats or grooves rotate to the tablecloth.

1. Dimension Selection

Dimensions and spanings on support beams, floor beams and decking can be seen in context. As a rule, you can choose whether you want foundations and coarse beams or many foundations and smoother beams. Is the reason hard to base on, it is tempting to choose one coarse support beam, or perhaps a steel carrier. Then you will get away with two foundations in addition to the cabin if the construction site is to have a square plan and hooked in the cabin.

Using rough decking, you can escape with greater beam distance. But work-related, it is practical with the usual center distance for floor beams, ie. 60 cm. Between the beams, it may be f. example. 3.50 meters if the floor beams are 48 x 198 mm and the center distance between them is 60 cm. If the beam dimension is reduced to 48 x 148, the maximum span will be 2.50 meters. The prerequisite is 2.5 kN / m² snow load and terraces beam C18.

If the foundations have been properly chopped and skewed, it may be necessary to go up a dimension in the beams and cloak into the beam until it is in the water or build up with impregnated loops. Slight skew must be acceptable and 1 cm wrong per. meters you hardly notice.

2. Start along the hut

The terrace is building yourself

HEADS AS FUNDAMENT: Let the cabin be the foundation and fasten the base beam or edge beam with powerful French wood screws. Remember pre-drilling! Here the floor beams are laid in the bell shoe so that you save height. The alternative would be to lay the floor beams on top of the support beam, but often it is in conflict with exit doors m. m. The support beam can also be attached to the wall, with expansion bolts. Photo: Dag Thorstensen (cabin life, archive)

Should the terrace or porch be hung in the cabin, it will be fine to start here. The support beam attached to the cabin is locked in height and becomes dimensioning for the beam system and floor level.

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The support beam in the cabin is fastened either in the bottom of the bottom / edge beam or in the base under the dressing tables with expansion bolts. You can also use beech shoes, but it requires a little more accuracy and more work, while the result does not get as good, just static.

3. Next parallel beam

When the beam along the cabin is stuck, the parallel support beam (possibly. several) are adjusted in place so that they are in the water and screwed. Sometimes it needs fine tuning, with tiles between foundation and beam. Use customized pressure-impregnated loops (11 x 36 e. l. ) for this.

The terrace is building yourself

RIGHT ON THE TERRACE: Is there a telephone and well-drained reason (mountains, mothers, etc.. ), the entire terrace can be laid directly on the ground on top of a compressed finishing layer. On the gravel layer, 48 x 98 is added with more planks on the bottle (with the flat or wide side) for the best load distribution. When the boards are watered up, the decking can be screwed. Photo: Dag Thorstensen (cabin life, archive)

Sometimes it may be necessary to make a small cut in the beam. But you have to thank yourself, because then the leveling has not been good enough.

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4. Beams

The floor beams are often one of the focal points for the railings. Imagine good attachment points for the stewardess stewards, if you choose to have railings. Also location and suspension of stairs is relevant to find out at this time.

The floor beams are usually laid from the cabin wall and beyond. They can either be placed on top of the support beam attached to the cabin wall or foundation wall, or attached to the beam with beamed shoe if there is little height to go on. It often becomes penest to collar the floor beams 25-30 cm from the support beam. Then no joints, brackets, beams and other coarse wooden loads are emphasized so clearly and the terrace seems easier.

The terrace is building yourself

USE LONG WATER: Use vated diligently, regardless of terrain terrain, like here, or a free-standing wooden structure. It’s impossible to get the floor 100% right, but the more careful you’re on the way, the closer you get 100%. Photo: Dag Thorstensen (cabin life, archive)

When all the floor beams are laid out and side by side, the time is in for a last check. The best is a combination of eye measurements and the use of water. It may be useful to use a so-called rectangle – that is,. and about. 3-4 meter long “plank” of aluminum, intended for this purpose – possibly. a long vater. With such tools, deviations in height will be revealed quickly. Skill also between carrying capacity and stiffness. Do you want an extra solid and stiff terrace that does not matter when you are going to impress the guests with the cosmopolitan dance, jenka, e. l. , do you go a little up in dimension.

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Overall, there will be no difference in price. On the other hand, the handling of the beams becomes heavy, and soon a twin job when the dimension increases.

It is always worth drawing up a simple, targeted plan for the support system. Then it’s easier to work efficiently, and the chance of bugging is less.

5. Tables

Before fixing the floorboards, consider whether you want the floor to work as a roof for the space under the porch. It’s often convenient to leave the floorboards along the cabin. Leave it a little distance to the wall so that water, snow and ice do not stay too long against the changing tables. With longitudinally extending planks, the inner plank can easily be removed by painting the wall of the cabin o. l. Typical dimensions are 21 x 95 mm and 28 x 120 mm decking.

But if you need an extra solid floor, you can also use coarser dimensions, f. example. in 36 or 48 mm thickness. Remember to get the correct screw dimension. 1. Sorting is often correct, and thus easier to add. But the tables can to some extent be forced into place. It is important to check where the tables are located. It is quick to make an unnecessary bow as you struggle to correct each table you add. The joints should be distributed as evenly as possible – for both aesthetic and building-related reasons.

It is recommended to lay the tables at a distance of 5 mm. Experienced, fresh, wet and newly impregnated materials can be completely blown to each other. The tables will usually always dry and contract. Do they seem completely dry, should you use even thickness tiles e. l. to ensure equal distance before the tables are fastened. Floorboards can be chipped after 10-1 5 years, paved and weathered after many years of weather and activity on the terrace. The most economical solves the problem by turning the decking. They are usually as new on the underside.

The terrace is building yourself

KAPPE BORD: It’s a taste of whether you want to cloak one and a table, or cut them to the end. Often it may be good to cloak them in one operation. Then you save time and the cut gets right. But please make a stretch beforehand or nail a game. l. as the case can be pushed until. Photo: Dag Thorstensen (cabin life, archive)

6. Transition to mountains and grass

When planning your carrying system, it is smart to calculate the transition between floor and mountain clocks or terrain by the way. Most of the time you have the choice of collapsing the floor beams or the floorboards and cutting them to the rock formations.

In some cases it may be easiest to cast an edge for carrying the floorboards so that they do not tilt. Where the patio deck with carriage and floorboards abuts the lawn, the wood should be protected against the organic masses with a strip of base plastic.

7. Integrating Other Features

A patio floor can provide extra features. A sunken sandbox, a sunken sun pit or a cool basement where you can store soda and soft drinks..

The terrace is building yourself

FITTING TO FELL: It will be the easiest and most practical if the terrace floor meets the mountain top with the least distance. Using the knob on the meter, apply the correct bow to the end of the wooden table so that they are shaped after the mountain. Photo: Dag Thorstensen (cabin life, archive)

One possibly. basement beneath the terraced floor should be dug down in the terrain or placed directly on the ground without insulation, while walls and lid should be insulated with 5-10 cm isopor (polystyrene).

In this way, a little bit of cold is added from the terrain (+ 8 throughout the year) while the volume is protected from hot summer air. Do not rush on the bottles, but guaranteed cellar-called and easily accessible. Can also work well as a fridge for vegetables on a hot summer day. Avoid placing the basement in the middle of the sunroof.

Read also:

All you need to know when building a terrace

The terrace is building yourself

Flower bed: Here the terrace floor has a recess for a flower bed. Also other features like sunflower, sandbox o. l. can be integrated to break a monotonous, large floor area. Some also leave a tuner left by building the terrace around the tree. It can be challenging if the tree is falling in the wind or going to be common. But nothing is impossible. Photo: Dag Thorstensen (cabin life, archive)

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